Vienna 2025, Day 2

The Real First Day

I feel like a human again today—not just the sleep-deprived traveler who can’t see the world past his exhaustion. The city is sparkling now. I remember why Vienna is so magical.

The day started with coffee and more Sacher torte, enjoyed with the spectacular view outside my window. To the left stands the State Opera House, where the Opernball will be held next week—I can’t wait! But first, the Kaffeeseiderball at the Hofburg tomorrow, which I’m terribly excited about. So today, the plan is to enjoy the city without exhausting myself, saving energy for the big day ahead.

After a slow morning in my room (soaked in the bath with a view of the city), I headed to Joseph Brot at Albertinaplatz—my favorite spot for breakfast—for a leisurely meal. I ordered the same thing as yesterday: a Viennese breakfast (they call it Joseph Breakfast), their interpretation of it. It was simpler than the Sacher Hotel’s version— two kinds of cheese, one kind of ham, one kind of jam, honey—but the focus on quality over variety was much appreciated. I can’t recommend Joseph Brot enough for an easy, locally loved breakfast. I’ll probably eat here 60% of the mornings I’m in Vienna, and I’ll probably order the same thing each time.

When I’m back in Chicago, I try to recreate a Viennese breakfast when I need a shift in routine—a small way to brighten my day. A little mountain cheese, deli ham, and a freshly baked biscuit bring back a hint of Vienna, if only for a moment.

Why do I love this city so much? If you’re here, it needs no explanation. But for those who haven’t been—or haven’t been in a long time—perhaps some words or images might help.

I once tried a self-guided walking tour and got completely lost—not because the directions were bad, but because I assumed the next stop was farther than it was. In reality, it was just a few steps away. That’s Vienna: dense with history, dense with quality. Like many European cities, things here are made to last and cared for over time. But Vienna has something else—art. Music, visual art, dance. This is the city of Strauss, Mozart, Beethoven, Klimt, the Habsburgs. You don’t just learn its history—you feel it. It’s in the architecture, the atmosphere, the way people move through their day.

It’s a city worth your time. A city worth visiting. A city worth traveling to without much of an agenda other than to walk its streets.

Anyway, back to my day. After breakfast, I headed to the State Opera House to pick up our Opera Ball tickets. At first, I thought it was strange that there wasn’t a digital option—until I actually went to the opera house to collect them. When was the last time you held a physical ticket for something? I honestly don’t remember—maybe an airline ticket back in 2004. But as I stood there, going through security, I realized how special this made the experience. The tickets weren’t just emailed PDFs of codes in an app; they were something tangible, something valuable. It elevated the anticipation.

Along with the tickets, I was given the official Opernball book—a hefty 200+ pages covering everything from the history of the ball to a detailed map of the opera house and biographies of the performers. One thing that stood out to me (and for those of you who know me this won’t be a surprise): the wine selection. Of course, they feature Austrian wines, but the level of detail they put into highlighting top producers and vintages—both new and old—is incredible. I can’t wait to experience it.

Back at my hotel, I immediately put the tickets in the safe. They truly felt like gold in my hands, and I wasn’t about to take any risks with them. I also sent a picture of the Opernball book to the people attending (none of whom are in Vienna yet) to stir up some excitement.

Later in the afternoon, I met two of the couples attending the Kaffeesiederball at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. First, I have to talk about the building itself before even getting to the art. What a masterpiece. Commissioned by Emperor Franz Joseph I, it was built in the late 19th century as part of his plan to modernize Vienna while preserving its imperial grandeur. The museum opened in 1891 and is now operated by the Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna organization, housing one of the most important art collections in the world.

Even though I’m not usually drawn to this kind of art, I thoroughly enjoyed the visit. We took plenty of breaks to sit on the benches, having casual but deep conversations about the works, the museum, art in general, and everyone’s experiences of Vienna so far. It was a perfect balance of engaging with the art and simply enjoying the moment. I’d do it all over again without hesitation.

Toward the end of our visit—when I was just about toast after an hour and a half—we came across the work of Giuseppe Arcimboldo. He’s the artist who painted faces out of vegetables, fish, and other objects. While I was familiar with his work, I had never seen the paintings up close before. This man had to be on something—his contemporaries weren’t doing anything remotely like this. Sure, they shared a similar color palette and attention to detail, but his imagery? Absolutely singular. Surrealism before Surrealism existed. I’d go back to the museum just to see his paintings again (and in fact, I might do that on Saturday).

I don’t know what it is about museums, but they exhaust me. Is it the dim lighting? The quiet atmosphere? The focused energy of the visitors? Something about it lulls me into a restful state, and honestly, I’m surprised I lasted as long as I did.

Afterward, I took a leisurely walk back to the hotel for a much-needed nap before getting ready for dinner. 

It was a bit chilly during our walk to Stadtpark, the location of Meierei im Stadtpark, a well-regarded yet casual counterpart to the Michelin-starred Steirereck, located just above it. Meierei specializes in Austrian cuisine with a strong focus on dairy products, particularly cheese, which plays a central role in many of its dishes. Its setting, right by the Wienfluss (Vienna River), makes it one of the more picturesque dining spots in the city.

Two really fun things about the location:

1. On our way from the Sacher Hotel, we passed Vienna’s most famous Johann Strauss statue. It’s a striking monument, but what really stood out to me—beyond the golden Strauss himself—was the marble surrounding him. I’m not sure if this detail comes through in pictures, but the expressions of joy and ecstasy on the figures dancing around him are incredibly realistic and beautifully sculpted.

2. Walking through a park before dinner is never a bad way to start a meal. A quiet stroll, the sound of leaves rustling, the glow of street lamps—it all set the perfect tone.

Now, to the restaurant itself—rustic, slightly old-school, but with modern hints. The meal was a bit of a mixed experience. The food was unbelievably delicious, but the presentation felt clunky, and the service was downright bad. I won’t get into every detail, but let’s just say there were clear front-of-house issues. That said, I’d still go back, just with slightly adjusted expectations.

One of the highlights for me—beyond the quality of the ingredients—was the wine list. As expected, it was Austrian-focused but exceptionally curated. Standouts included a beautifully textured 2020 Grüner Veltliner “Steinberg” from Hajszan Neumann in Vienna, and a refined 2017 Blaufränkisch “Bela Joska” from Wachter-Wiesler in Deutsch-Schützen, balancing spice and dark fruit notes. Their by-the-glass selection, though concise, was thoughtfully chosen, featuring options like the 2022 Zierfandler “Gumpoldskirchen” from Gebeshuber, complementing the menu perfectly. 

We walked back to the hotel the same way we came, stopping at a few shop windows that had caught our eye earlier (though I forgot to take pictures). That was really the end of my night—except for sitting here and writing this. A chilly walk through a beautiful city, the perfect way to end a full day.

Side note: We stopped at the window of Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe - Feinste Stoffe because my friend, Nannette, is deeply into fabric, and they had stacks of beautiful bolts of fabric wrapped in paper, neatly arranged on shelves that stretched to the ceiling. The window displays featured truly exquisite ties and cravats, showcasing the kind of old-world craftsmanship that feels rare today. We’ll be back, Jungmann! 

Walking through Vienna today, I let myself simply be in the city. No itinerary, no rush—just an openness to noticing the details. The way light falls on ornate facades, the quiet elegance of people sipping coffee at outdoor cafés, the crisp winter air carrying the faint scent of roasting chestnuts. Vienna has a rhythm, a pulse that is both grand and intimate.

Tomorrow, the Kaffeesiederball at the Hofburg. I can already picture the grandeur of the ballroom, the swirl of waltzing couples, the champagne flutes clinking in celebration. But for today, I’m happy to simply exist in Vienna—to absorb its beauty without effort, to let its magic settle into my bones.

There are cities you visit, and then there are cities that become a part of you. Vienna is the latter.